Discussion:
VFR800 tripmeter keypad won't work
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bob prohaska
2017-10-10 01:11:40 UTC
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My 98 vfr800's tripmeter keys no longer work reliably.
Sometimes, after much pushing, something registers.
Firmly, gently, quickly, slowly, the buttons do or
(mostly) don't register the presses.

The keys feel like they're flexible rubber, probably with
a conductive pad that makes contacts on a circuit board.
Mechanically they feel basically ok.
Does anybody know if it's possible to open up the keypad
and clean the contacts?

Thanks for reading!

bob prohaska
Mark Olson
2017-10-10 11:35:53 UTC
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Post by bob prohaska
My 98 vfr800's tripmeter keys no longer work reliably.
Sometimes, after much pushing, something registers.
Firmly, gently, quickly, slowly, the buttons do or
(mostly) don't register the presses.
The keys feel like they're flexible rubber, probably with
a conductive pad that makes contacts on a circuit board.
Mechanically they feel basically ok.
Does anybody know if it's possible to open up the keypad
and clean the contacts?
I have successfully cleaned similar keyboards on remote controls a few
times. No idea whether the VFR800 instrument panel is easy or difficult
to disassemble for cleaning, but if it were mine I would attempt it.
bob prohaska
2017-10-12 01:44:56 UTC
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Post by Mark Olson
Post by bob prohaska
My 98 vfr800's tripmeter keys no longer work reliably.
Sometimes, after much pushing, something registers.
Firmly, gently, quickly, slowly, the buttons do or
(mostly) don't register the presses.
The keys feel like they're flexible rubber, probably with
a conductive pad that makes contacts on a circuit board.
Mechanically they feel basically ok.
Does anybody know if it's possible to open up the keypad
and clean the contacts?
I have successfully cleaned similar keyboards on remote controls a few
times.
Same here....
Post by Mark Olson
No idea whether the VFR800 instrument panel is easy or difficult
to disassemble for cleaning, but if it were mine I would attempt it.
Aye, there's the rub. I wouldn't mind taking the dash apart if I knew
the keypad could be (reversibly) disassembled.

On a whim I just looked at
http://www.servicehonda.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2b0cf870023420a30f30/speedometer

If the drawing is representative of fact, the switches aren't the sort of
rubber pads I expected, but rather standalone switches mounted on the board.
It's unclear if that augurs well or ill for my enterprise but I fear ill.

No price for the LCD given, so it's NLA. I'll wait a bit to see if anybody
chimes in with more information.

Thanks for posting!

bob prohaska
Agaric
2017-10-12 05:31:21 UTC
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Post by bob prohaska
On a whim I just looked at
http://www.servicehonda.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2b0cf870023420a30f30/speedometer
...
Post by bob prohaska
No price for the LCD given, so it's NLA. I'll wait a bit to see if anybody
chimes in with more information.
Thanks for posting!
bob prohaska
I added the part to my shopping cart here

<https://thumpertalk.com/shop/oem.php?manufacturer=1&part=37230-MBG-671>

Just $434.31
bob prohaska
2017-10-15 00:46:31 UTC
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Post by Agaric
Post by bob prohaska
On a whim I just looked at
http://www.servicehonda.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2b0cf870023420a30f30/speedometer
...
Post by bob prohaska
No price for the LCD given, so it's NLA. I'll wait a bit to see if anybody
chimes in with more information.
Thanks for posting!
bob prohaska
I added the part to my shopping cart here
<https://thumpertalk.com/shop/oem.php?manufacturer=1&part=37230-MBG-671>
Just $434.31
For that kind of money I'll carry a notepad and do the math!

8-)

bob prohaska
Mark Olson
2017-10-12 11:39:46 UTC
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Post by bob prohaska
Aye, there's the rub. I wouldn't mind taking the dash apart if I knew
the keypad could be (reversibly) disassembled.
On a whim I just looked at
http://www.servicehonda.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2b0cf870023420a30f30/speedometer
If the drawing is representative of fact, the switches aren't the sort of
rubber pads I expected, but rather standalone switches mounted on the board.
It's unclear if that augurs well or ill for my enterprise but I fear ill.
No price for the LCD given, so it's NLA. I'll wait a bit to see if anybody
chimes in with more information.
I would actually be encouraged by that drawing. It clearly shows
two miniature mechanical switches soldered to the printed circuit
board. Since #16 was made to be a replaceable part, it should be
relatively easy to remove it, and replace those switches. Sure,
you'll have to find a suitable part, but Digi-Key should have an
exact-fit replacement, for not more than a buck or two each. Their
website is right up there along with McMaster-Carr for ease of use
in part selection.
bob prohaska
2017-10-15 00:49:37 UTC
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Post by Mark Olson
I would actually be encouraged by that drawing. It clearly shows
two miniature mechanical switches soldered to the printed circuit
board. Since #16 was made to be a replaceable part, it should be
relatively easy to remove it, and replace those switches. Sure,
you'll have to find a suitable part, but Digi-Key should have an
exact-fit replacement, for not more than a buck or two each. Their
website is right up there along with McMaster-Carr for ease of use
in part selection.
Perhaps you're right. It'd be more complicated that just cleaning
a conductive rubber mat and a circuitboard, but in the worst case
wires could be soldered to a switch that didn't quite fit. I'm
still hesitant to take the dash apart, but am warming up to the
idea.

Thanks for posting!

bob prohaska
Mark Olson
2017-10-15 13:48:04 UTC
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Post by bob prohaska
Post by Mark Olson
I would actually be encouraged by that drawing. It clearly shows
two miniature mechanical switches soldered to the printed circuit
board. Since #16 was made to be a replaceable part, it should be
relatively easy to remove it, and replace those switches. Sure,
you'll have to find a suitable part, but Digi-Key should have an
exact-fit replacement, for not more than a buck or two each. Their
website is right up there along with McMaster-Carr for ease of use
in part selection.
Perhaps you're right. It'd be more complicated that just cleaning
a conductive rubber mat and a circuitboard, but in the worst case
wires could be soldered to a switch that didn't quite fit. I'm
still hesitant to take the dash apart, but am warming up to the
idea.
I'm fairly confident that you should be able to find exact fit
replacements. Worst case is you have to improvise or modify, but since
there are literally dozens if not hundreds of those types of switches
on Digi-Key, the chances are very good you'll find one that matches
the footprint and the height. Even if you have to get one that's a
different height to match the footprint, you can shave some off the
tip or drop a blob of J-B Weld on the plunger to build it up.

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